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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning names. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.